I’m on a train from Avila to Madrid. Looking out the window, all I wish for is to be riding out there, right now. The tundra-like pastures are dotted with granite boulders and black bovine, the gray clouds hang low, threatening to envelop everything in mist, but now and then, the damp air is lifted by sunlight striking through.

Having set out on a journey with the intention to ride through thick and thin , highs and lows, I’m disheartened to have succumbed to riding the trains and busses so soon - and through such a large portion of a country I was genuinely looking forward to exploring from the saddle. 

With several days of resting my knee, recovery seems to have plateaued; even just 10kms of cautious pedalling around the city brings unwanted attention back to the injury prone joint. The days have been spent walking my bike through the narrow cobblestone streets, drinking coffee, trying local tapas, eating cheese and ibérico chorizo sandwiches in the parks, visiting and revisiting the central buildings. Decrypting the complex history and significance of churches, cathedrals, turrets, walls and the rest has been a challenge as many museums and signs are written only in Spanish. Even what can be found in English is only a mir glimpse of the vast wealth of the past. Many places boast human occupation from prehistoric times and buildings have undergone numerous remodelling and additions throughout the centuries, cities have been breached and conquered, and retaken for a millennia.

Terms like fresco, stucco, romanesque, baroque, double-arch windows or lintels bring back memories of high school lessons on art, history and architecture. The walls and turrets from the Middle Ages respark the fascination I felt as a child of the world of nights, kings and castles, wandering around the experience is a bit surreal and I feel like a kid at Disneyland.

Inside the places of worship, the ornate sculptures and carvings, dedication to details, the unfathomable labour and expertise, the meticulous records of events, tombs of the faithful, and the constant re-occurring symbols and images of the life of christ and the holy trinity, saints, martyrs, and local bishops all express the deep conviction, importance, power and influence of Christianity, to affirm legitimacy and the promise of judgment to those who sin, as well as salvation for those who follow the word of God. One of the points from the audio guide that stood out to me however, was that it was possible that all the sensory distractions could to take away from the original intent of the space as being a place of deep contemplation and reflection

I was a victim of sensory distraction.

The thing which makes me feel like I’m still on a bike tour is camping every night. One of the joys comes from finding a good camp spot, secluded with a great view overlooking the city or the valley, and waking up to fair weather. One of the anxiety’s comes from not finding a good camp spot, exposed, uneven, and damp. Once inside the polyester walls though, the new, non-freestanding hiking-pole tent has been reliable and comfortable.